Image stabilization is the key for getting rock steady shots when using a very long focal length. A number of factors can work and render the shot useless, camera shake can come both internally and externally. Factors such as an unsteady pair of hands are one of the primary factors here. If one is using a long focal length, it is imperative that one uses a tripod or a monopod. If there is none and or one is definitely looking to hand hold a shot at 200mm then it is imperative that the lens has a image stabilization system built-in.
Another factor that can ruin a shot at 200mm or beyond is the wind. The camera can be rocked by the wind and that means even if the deflection is 1mm it can make a massive effect on a longer focal length. Camera shakes can happen internally as well. When the shutter release button is pressed, the camera mirror moves out of the way (swivels up) and makes room for the light to hit the sensor. This movement can affect the shot as well. This is critically important when you’re shooting a faster shutter speed shot as the camera shake lasts for the entire duration of the exposure. For longer exposures however, the camera shake can be absorbed by the shot.
Image stabilization is an important factor to be considered when shooting with a medium telephoto lens. Image stabilization uses a compensating motion which detects horizontal and or vertical motion when the shot is being taken so that the ultimate pictures are sharp. Even in low light conditions and or situations where normally one would should with a tripod (longer exposures) the use or Image Stabilization can help to get clear sharp photos.
Without image stabilization the shots will become blurry and or have unintended motion blur. Photography enthusiasts, especially those who love taking wild life photos prefer to use a tripod no matter what. It helps them to counter the camera shake, the wind shake and also the shake induced because of the finger pressing the shutter release button.
There are many lenses available which do not mage stabilization built-into them. It becomes that much difficult to use them hand holding. A standard hand held shot could be having a least exposure time of around 1/30 seconds. Anything less than that is very tough to capture, no matter how steady your hands may be.
Again image stabilization when turned on and when the camera is mounted on a tripod can actually be a detrimental thing. It would try to compensate for non-existent camera shake. Even when shooting videos, using the image stabilization system turned on can cause the movements to be jittery as the camera will try to compensate for the movement.
To conclude, one would definitely need image stabilization system for any telephoto lens. It is required for a 70-200mm lens as well. Even when using a standard lens, image stabilization is necessary when hand holding and if the user is looking for sharp photos.
A 50mm prime is a full body shooter’s go to prime for shooting portraits and street photographs. Full body shooter always prefers to use at least one prime because they are evidently faster and are lighter. For street photography they offer more speed and the convenience of carrying a light weight lens for a 35mm camera. they are also known as standard primes, the reason being they have the same focal length that the human eye roughly has making them perfect for the purpose of shooting portraits, street photography and also landscape for the desired effect.
Coming to the oft use question about how to shoot people with a 50mm prime, we have to understand some secrets of about street photography and candid photography. Focusing and your motion with the camera is a big factor when it comes to shooting people. If you appear to be shooting with a big camera, your subjects are automatically going to be conscious about you. There is a thing about shooting people when they are not looking at you. It sometimes brings out the best in their physical and facial expressions. Pro photographers often shoot people from an angle when they are turned away or lightly facing away from the camera. Having said that there is no harm in shooting people with a 50mm prime even when they are looking straight ahead.
Shooting and not letting know that you have taken a picture is a great way to take pictures especially when you are traveling in countries where pointing a camera to some one is not considered respectful. You can try this as a method. First point and take a candid shot of the subject. Then while keeping your eye on the viewfinder, keep pointing at another direction or slowly pan out as if you’re tracking some thing else. The subject even if he aware of you will not realize that he was the original focus of interest.
Filling the frame when shooting portraits of people is a great way to including a lot of detail. If you’re shooting people, make sure not to step up to close. Wide angle lenses often have an effect of bringing the object closer to it (in this case the nose) much more in perspective than the remaining part of the face. Some photographers prefer using a secondary subject, which may be kept out of focus, to give more dramatic effects. Still others prefer using a background that tells a story in itself.
Lighting is a big factor. No mater what type of photography you’re doing less light means a ruined underexposed photograph. A 50mm prime such as the AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G is a great lens to have as it gives a very wide aperture and allows you to collect more light even when shooting in evenings when there is no direct light to go around. With a wide f/1.4 aperture the lens shutter will also remain open for a short period of time and yet beautifully expose for the picture. You may even have to crank up the ISO a bit to compensate for the sensor size so that it is a bit more sensitive to light.